What is This “Natural Cosmetics” Trend?
Cosmetics have been around for centuries, starting with the first perfume created back in the 1600s. We all have creams or lip balms that help keep skin hydrated in cold weather.
Yet, in recent years, the industry has been heavily criticized for certain ingredients used in the manufacture of products.
For example, the famous parabens. Chemical substances that have been associated with the idea (not a fact) that they cause cancer.
For this reason, a new trend of cosmetics called “Natural or Organic” emerged.
These new types of products are made with ingredients that supposedly have not undergone any type of chemical treatment or refinement.
I’m quoting the term “Natural” because there is no clear regulation on what parameters products must meet to be called this way.
In this article, I will tell you about what natural cosmetics are and who is in charge of certifying them.
What is a Cosmetic?
In Mexico, according to the General Federal Health Law article 269, a cosmetic is:
Substances or formulations intended to be put in contact with the superficial parts of the human body: epidermis, hair and capillary system, nails, lips, and external genital organs, or with the teeth and oral mucosa for the exclusive or main purpose of cleaning them, perfuming them, helping to modify their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors or attenuating or preventing deficiencies or alterations in the functioning of healthy skin — Extract from Federal Health Law, Mexico. Translated by me.
In short, they are substances used on the skin and other external parts of the body to clean or beautify them.
What is a Natural Cosmetic?
It is a fact that there is no definition of natural cosmetics in Mexican legislation (or International). Thus, there is some ambiguity about which products are natural and which are not.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) created a classification for food products, which is being used by cosmetic companies.
This classification establishes the following:
- 100% Organic Product — 100% of its ingredients are of organic origin.
- Organic Product — At least 95% of its ingredients are of organic origin.
- Product with organic ingredients — Contains between 70 and 94% ingredients of organic origin.
In France, the non-governmental certification agency ECOCERT uses another type of classification. It establishes the following:
Natural cosmetic — Product that is made with a minimum of 95% natural ingredients. The remaining 5% may be substances derived from chemical synthesis. Yet, there is a restrictive list on which substances are accepted within this 5%.
Example of a Natural Cosmetic
Below is the formulation of an existing product on the market, recognized as natural (according to regulations).
We can see that the majority of the ingredients do not undergo a chemical transformation. In fact, the only ingredient obtained by chemical synthesis is tocopherol acetate.
Non-Governmental Regulatory Agencies
To cover the absence of clear legislation, certain non-governmental organizations were born.
These agencies have created certifications that are only granted to producers that meet their standards.
This helps the consumer to identify the certified products. Which in turn meets the specific characteristics of the agency.
There are many agencies in different countries around the world. Such as ECOCERT in France, OASIS in Spain, BDIH in Germany, AIAB in Italy, Soil Association in the United Kingdom, CANIPEC in Mexico.
Each of these agencies has its own process of certification. They also have requirements for the production processes of the cosmetics.
For example, ECOCERT mentions the following stages:
The finished product, according to the ingredients and procedures used: the minimum percentage of ingredients of natural and organic origin, the commitment of the suppliers on the raw materials delivered, the verification of the packaging used, and the labeling control. The manufacturer, since there is control over the transport and storage of ingredients and finished products: hygiene and cleanliness of the manufacturing and packaging areas; management of energy, emissions, and waste (selective classification and recycling), as well as the evaluation of the global quality system (traceability) and self-control.
All the above is what ECOCERT evaluates of the companies that request their services. Once the audit is over, if everything is ok, the seal of this agency can be put on the products.
In the case of Mexico, CANIPEC has established the Cosmep code, which works as a self-regulatory system for advertisement. The purpose of the document is:
“To be the basis of action for companies in the creation of responsible advertising, promoting an ethical culture and a commitment to truthfulness through the generation of a framework of healthy competition in the market; as well as to collaborate with the Authorities and self-regulatory organisms to protect the consumer from misleading or abusive advertising, strengthening the regulation and regulations in force.” (CANIPEC, code Cosmep — 2020. Extracted from: https://canipec.org.mx/cosmep/), translated by me.
Conclusion
Currently, there is a lack of regulation of natural/organic cosmetics. Many organizations have taken approaches on the matter to help consumers be sure of the products they buy.
Thus, I recommend you always check the label of the products you are using.
Sources of information
https://www.bbva.com/es/sostenibilidad/el-futuro-de-la-cosmetica-ecologica-una-tendencia-al-alza/
